Pillar · Editorial
Sicily for hedonists: Etna, black sand and arancini
A volcano smoking above the vineyards, red grapes at 800 meters and panino with spleen at the Palermo market — Sicily is eaten with your hands.
20·08 · 7 min read● Section
Travel
Destinations with a plan: routes, lodging (and camping), meals, and the exact month to go.
The Big Guide
the full treatment
Pillar · Editorial
Stara planina in summer: Kadu, stone villages and paths to the sky
The Kadu waterfall falls thirty meters into a silence unknown to the city, and above it stands Gostuša, built of stone without a single nail.
23·07 · 7 min read
Pillar · Editorial
Adriatic highway from Rijeka to Dubrovnik
Five hundred kilometers of asphalt above the sea, from Velebit to Pelješac — how to divide the highway into stages that are remembered, not endured.
21·07 · 7 min readDaily Dose
lists · guides · ideasPalić and salaši: Subotica before autumn
The lake loses its summer crowd, not the heat of the water, and the chardas on the shore cook fish stew in the cauldron, not according to the menu.
Plan za vikend: berba u Šumadiji
Subota kad se grožđe još bere ručno, a mladi vranac je taman toliko mutan da mu se veruje da je pravi.
Vlasin Lake: a cold plateau before autumn
At 1,200 meters, the lake is not heated like the others, and the islands on it literally swim — Vlasina is the coldest point in Serbia even in August.
Five wine regions in Serbia where grapes are trampled in the harvest
September is the only month when you enter the Serbian cellar without knocking — the door is open because the cauldron is full and your hands are dirty with must.
Ohrid in September: trout that is rare
The Ohrid trout on the menu at the price of a regular river is almost certainly not the Ohrid trout. That is the first question for the waiter.
Skadarsko u septembru: barka, vranac i ukljeva
Lokvanji su odcvetali, autobusi su otišli, a u Crmnici se bere. Skadarsko jezero je krajem septembra najbolje što Crna Gora ima van mora.
Tara for one day: Spa rock before eight
The spa rock at noon is the line for the photo. At eight in the morning there is a cliff edge above Perućac and no one but you.
Golubac and Đerdap for the weekend: fortress, ship and soup
Nine towers on a rock, a ship through the narrowest throat of the Danube and a pot of stew that boils for two hours — a weekend where Serbia has a fjord.
A picnic on the mountain: trunk, cooler and ice that lasts
Dew that is lukewarm at noon is not a wine, but a poorly packed cooler. Here's how much ice it holds, what goes down and what goes up.
Zlatibor and Mokra Gora before the bell: tea, honey and silence
The last week of August on the plateau smells of dried thyme and jars of honey still warm from the centrifuge — before the students sit in their desks.
Weekend on Etna: crater in the morning, lava in a glass in the afternoon
One day, two heights: 2900 meters of volcanic ash until noon, then a glass of Nerella from 700 meters until sunset. This is how it comes together.
Lustica peski peske: coves that the car cannot see
The peninsula that separates Boca from the open sea has coves that can only be reached by sand, through olive groves older than all the houses around them.
Two days of Istria: a tavern, an oil mill and a winemaker in the same circle
How to connect a tavern, an oil mill and a winemaker in one weekend, without spending half a day behind the wheel or arriving at the tasting hungry.
Istria through the hills: Motovun, Grožnjan and oil mills
August in the interior of Istria: the summer truffle that no one hides, oil mills between rows of olive trees and two towns on top of a hill.
Camp on the Drina near Perućac: cold water and rafts
The water under the dam is eight degrees even in August. A guide to camping, swimming and soup on a raft near Perućac — no surprises on the skin.
Three wine routes of Fruška Gora: Bermet, Probus and Karlovci
Bermet from the cellars of Karlovac, Probus from the southern slopes and a day that goes along with every tour — with kilometers and exact breaks.
Tomorrow in the cellars of Fruška Gora: whom to call and whom to ban
Fruška has cellars that accept you even without notice and those where you stand in front of the gate without an invitation. Here's how to arrange your day so that your taste buds don't get dull by noon.
Corfu off-season: Kerkyra, kumquat and northern coves
The old town of Corfu at seven in the morning smells of coffee and wet stone, and the northern bays do not yet have a single sunbed. Here's how to catch both.
Peljesac for the weekend: Dingac, stone taverns and oysters
Two days on a peninsula where the vineyard stands at an angle of 45 degrees, and oysters are pulled from the sea while you are still looking at them.
Tomorrow: Split, Brac and Hvar in one day by ferry
Two islands in one day from Split is only possible if you read the Jadrolinija timetable backwards — from the last ferry to the first coffee.
Vis in three days: Komiža, plavac jug and military tunnels
The island, which was closed to foreigners until 1989, today offers a jug of plavac in the tavern and tunnels that can be entered without a tournament.
Uvac for one day: kayaking, meanders and a picnic by the water
Green meanders that twist as if someone were drawing, a griffon vulture overhead and silence that is not disturbed by a kayak — Uvac opens only to those who enter the water.
Naxos and Milos: Cyclades forgotten by Santorini
While Santorini is drowning in cruise ships, two islands further south offer white tuff, cedars by the beach and a carafe of local wine for five euros.
Njeguši nad Bok: prosciutto, cheese and 25 serpentine Lovcen
The old road from Kotor to Njeguš has 25 visible serpentines and a village at the top that smells of smoke and storm. Here's how to put the steering wheel and board together.
Bohinj, Mohant and Goriška brda in one weekend
Car to train through the Bohinj tunnel, Mohanta plate above the lake and Rebula in the hills — two days that connect the mountain and the border with Italy.
Speyside at your own pace: Glenlivet, The Macallan and the road in between
Two distilleries, one river and half an hour's drive between them — how to drive to Speyside without wasting a glass.
Trieste in one day: nero, old taverns and fish market
A city where espresso doesn't exist — it's looking for nero. A one-day gourmet excursion across the border, from a Viennese tavern to a stall selling Adriatic sardines.
Cheese road through western Serbia in one weekend
From Sjenica to Zlatar, two days and half a kilo of cheese in the trunk — a route that measures height, salt and patience.
Emilia-Romagna: cheese, vinegar and mortadella at the source
A 40-kilogram wheel, a keg as old as its owner, mortadella as thick as a pole — the plan for three days in the Po Valley.
Cellar and cauldron: how a visit turns into knowledge
Already after the first cup, you know whether they are driving you or teaching you. How can a visit to the distillery and cellar not be a tourist show, but a day that leaves something behind.
Kakheti: wine from the country, endless supra and the Caucasus
Amber wine that sleeps in a buried barrel for six months, a table that never gets emptied and mountains on the horizon — Kakheti is hedonism without a brake.
Ceger na Kalenić, fly on Kosmaj: a gourmet day
In the morning, at Kalenić, at noon, they fly to the Cabinet Office in Kosmaj — 45 kilometers that turn the day into a ritual, not an obligation.
Pilsen and Prague: where pilsner still has a real name
Ninety kilometers separate the factory that invented the golden lager from Prague's beer halls where draft beer is drunk standing up. We drove that line.
Oaxaca for gourmets: palenques, moles and markets without the hustle and bustle
Smoke from a hole in the ground, seven recipes for mole and a market that smells like cocoa — Oaxaca is not visited, it is eaten and drunk.
Kyoto and Osaka in summer: early temples, late dinners
Kyoto can be +37 in July with humidity that sticks the shirt to the back — but the city is conquered at seven in the morning and nine at night.
Luggage for a day trip, packed properly
Cooler bag that really cools, gear that fits in one chest, and groceries that don't capitulate at +35. List without hyphens.
Three lakes for the weekend: Palic, Perucac and Vlasina
The warmth of the plains, the coldness of the mountains and an altitude of 1,200 meters — three lakes that turn the weekend into three different states.
Three ethno-households of Western Serbia for that weekend
No air conditioning, no bar, no notifications: three places in Western Serbia where the extended weekend is measured in mornings, not hours.
Stara mountain for the weekend: Midjor, waterfalls and stone
The highest peak in Serbia, a waterfall that falls 15 meters and a stone village — all in two days, if you know in which order.
Tara, Zlatibor and Stara planina when the city boils at +38
While Belgrade stands at +38, at 1000 meters the wind blows and a blanket is mandatory at night. Three mountains, three characters, three reasons to fill up the tank.
Three Dalmatian auto-camps with pine, shade and beach
A fifty-year-old pine cools the tent while the asphalt outside is 40°C. Three campsites in Dalmatia where you park your car in the shade, and the sea is a hundred steps away.
Five Adriatic beaches that can be reached by car and where you can park
No ferry, no hour of sand. Five beaches that you drive to, leave your car and in ten minutes you are in the water.
The Night Before the Adriatic: What to Check While There's Still Time
A breakdown doesn't happen on the highway — it happens in the parking lot, in your head, the evening before. Here's what to check while you can still fix it.
Istria for Gourmets: Fishing Villages, Oil Mills and Konobas
From sardines in Fažana to olive oil in Vodnjan and truffles above Motovun — a route where every stop is a meal.
Three Fruska Gora Lakes for Camping: Shade, Gear and Prices
Ledinci, Bruje and Sot: where to pitch a tent, what it costs, and why shade decides everything for a summer weekend on Fruska Gora.
Pelješac in 48 Hours: Ston, Dingač and the Sea Without Rushing
Two days on a peninsula where the vineyard drops into the sea at a 45-degree pitch, and oysters are eaten two meters from where they were pulled out of the water.
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