Beograd · 43°49′NBeograd— Editorial —No. 190Četvrtak / 17·09·202617·09·26
MODUS
Travel · Blog

Three wine routes of Fruška Gora: Bermet, Probus and Karlovci

Bermet from the cellars of Karlovac, Probus from the southern slopes and a day that goes along with every tour — with kilometers and exact breaks.

a view of a lush green valley surrounded by mountains
Photo: Jovan Vasiljević / Unsplash

Bermet smells like Christmas in the middle of July—cinnamon, wormwood, and orange peel that have been in the wine for months until the honey melds with the bitterness. The first sip in the cellar in Sremski Karlovci explains why this wine went to royal tables and, according to legend, toTitanic. But Fruška gora is not one wine or one road. There are at least three of them, and each requires a different day behind the wheel.

Below is the plan by mileage, with breaks that are not there to fill time but to prepare the palate. If you only want asphalt, viewpoints and road technique, read it firstFruška Gora behind the wheel; we drive here for the glass.

Put Bermeta: Karlovci in one afternoon

From Novi Sad toSremski Karlovacthere is everything11 kmalong the Danube — a section that you cross in fifteen minutes, and which throws you from the city into a town with a cathedral, a gymnasium and cellars lined up along the alleys. Bermet, an aromatized dessert wine from the region, is made here20 herbs and spices, macerated for weeks, which every family keeps as a recipe under lock and key.

Don't rush. Two cellars fit in one afternoon, not five. At homeZivanovicBermet goes with mead and the story of bees; the codeBajilaandRainthe tasting is more classic, with dry Karlovac wines. The white version of Bermet is drunk chilled8–10 °Cas an aperitif, red na14–16 °Cwith walnuts or mature cheese. Lunch break: a tavern in the center, 300 m from the cathedral, where a glass of homemade kulen and hard cheese goes with it. If you need a precise tour schedule, there is oursa guide to whom to call and whom to ban.

Below is the plan by mileage, with breaks that are not there to fill time but to prepare the palate.

The Probus road: southern slopes and the domestic variety

Probus is a Fruška Gora story without a counterpart — a red variety created by crossingkadarke and pinot noir, developed in Serbia, with a deep color and a spicy note reminiscent of dried plum and pepper. The cellars that are doing it seriously lie on the southern slopes, in betweenIriga, Vrdnik and Ruma, on the heights150–300 mwhere loess and sand give structure to the wine.

The route from Karlovac viaIrisko venc to Vrdnikmeasures approx35 kmand climbs up toabout 500 mat the highest point of the pass. It drives slowly, with two or three stops. Probus is looking for a dish—lamb, venison, mature grilled beef. The white wines of the region go well with it when you need a break; we wrote about them in the text aboutwhite wines of the Balkans for the summer. Break: a thermal break in Vrdnik after the tasting, because Probus is not drunk on ex.

RoadMileageDuration with breaksWine
Bermet (Karlovci)~25 km (NS and back)4–5 hFlavored dessert
Probus (Irig–Vrdnik)~35 km5–6 hDry red
Cellars (circular)~60 kmall dayMixed

The third path is circular — the junction of the first two, approx60 kmfrom Karlovac through the mountain range to Vrdnik and back, with two cellars and one longer break for lunch. It's a full day, and requires a sober driver or lodging. Never the other way around.

Questions & answers

short and to the point
At what temperature is Bermet served?
White Bermet as an aperitif at 8–10 °C, and red with dessert at 14–16 °C. Always chilled — room temperature kills its balance of honey and bitterness.
What is Probus wine?
Probus is a red variety created in Serbia by crossing Kadarka and Pinot Noir, with a deep color and notes of dried plum and pepper. It is grown on the southern slopes of Fruška Gora, at an altitude of 150–300 m.
How long does the tour of the cellars of Sremski Karlovac take?
In one afternoon, you can realistically fit two cellars, not five. The road itself from Novi Sad is 11 km, and the entire circular wine day with Vrdnik is about 60 km.

Read on

from the same press