Palić and salaši: Subotica before autumn
The lake loses its summer crowd, not the heat of the water, and the chardas on the shore cook fish stew in the cauldron, not according to the menu.
17·09 / 4 minThe lake loses its summer crowd, not the heat of the water, and the chardas on the shore cook fish stew in the cauldron, not according to the menu.
17·09 / 4 minSubota kad se grožđe još bere ručno, a mladi vranac je taman toliko mutan da mu se veruje da je pravi.
17·09 / 4 minAt 1,200 meters, the lake is not heated like the others, and the islands on it literally swim — Vlasina is the coldest point in Serbia even in August.
16·09 / 3 minSix to seven hours from Belgrade to Kotor, one obligatory stop for Njeguš prosciutto and a bay where the sea is still warm in mid-September.
16·09 / 4 minThe Ohrid trout on the menu at the price of a regular river is almost certainly not the Ohrid trout. That is the first question for the waiter.
14·09 / 5 minLokvanji su odcvetali, autobusi su otišli, a u Crmnici se bere. Skadarsko jezero je krajem septembra najbolje što Crna Gora ima van mora.
13·09 / 4 minThere are two ways to get to the sea, and the difference is not in kilometers, but in how many times you will stop and where your brakes slacken.
24·08 / 8 minThe spa rock at noon is the line for the photo. At eight in the morning there is a cliff edge above Perućac and no one but you.
24·08 / 4 minNine towers on a rock, a ship through the narrowest throat of the Danube and a pot of stew that boils for two hours — a weekend where Serbia has a fjord.
22·08 / 4 minDew that is lukewarm at noon is not a wine, but a poorly packed cooler. Here's how much ice it holds, what goes down and what goes up.
21·08 / 4 minThe last week of August on the plateau smells of dried thyme and jars of honey still warm from the centrifuge — before the students sit in their desks.
21·08 / 4 minOne day, two heights: 2900 meters of volcanic ash until noon, then a glass of Nerella from 700 meters until sunset. This is how it comes together.
20·08 / 4 minThe peninsula that separates Boca from the open sea has coves that can only be reached by sand, through olive groves older than all the houses around them.
20·08 / 4 minA volcano smoking above the vineyards, red grapes at 800 meters and panino with spleen at the Palermo market — Sicily is eaten with your hands.
20·08 / 7 minHow to connect a tavern, an oil mill and a winemaker in one weekend, without spending half a day behind the wheel or arriving at the tasting hungry.
19·08 / 4 minAugust in the interior of Istria: the summer truffle that no one hides, oil mills between rows of olive trees and two towns on top of a hill.
19·08 / 4 minThe water under the dam is eight degrees even in August. A guide to camping, swimming and soup on a raft near Perućac — no surprises on the skin.
18·08 / 4 minBermet from the cellars of Karlovac, Probus from the southern slopes and a day that goes along with every tour — with kilometers and exact breaks.
18·08 / 4 minIn the Basque Country, you don't sit at the table, but stand at the bar, eat with your hands and drink txakoli, which the waiter pours from a height of half a meter.
18·08 / 7 minFruška has cellars that accept you even without notice and those where you stand in front of the gate without an invitation. Here's how to arrange your day so that your taste buds don't get dull by noon.
17·08 / 3 minThe old town of Corfu at seven in the morning smells of coffee and wet stone, and the northern bays do not yet have a single sunbed. Here's how to catch both.
17·08 / 4 minThe roof box raises consumption and center of gravity, the trunk raises the axle. How to load a wagon for a 1500 km flight so that it remains stable at 130.
16·08 / 7 minTwo days on a peninsula where the vineyard stands at an angle of 45 degrees, and oysters are pulled from the sea while you are still looking at them.
16·08 / 4 minTwo islands in one day from Split is only possible if you read the Jadrolinija timetable backwards — from the last ferry to the first coffee.
15·08 / 4 minThe island, which was closed to foreigners until 1989, today offers a jug of plavac in the tavern and tunnels that can be entered without a tournament.
15·08 / 4 minGreen meanders that twist as if someone were drawing, a griffon vulture overhead and silence that is not disturbed by a kayak — Uvac opens only to those who enter the water.
02·08 / 4 minWhile Santorini is drowning in cruise ships, two islands further south offer white tuff, cedars by the beach and a carafe of local wine for five euros.
02·08 / 4 minThe old road from Kotor to Njeguš has 25 visible serpentines and a village at the top that smells of smoke and storm. Here's how to put the steering wheel and board together.
01·08 / 4 minCar to train through the Bohinj tunnel, Mohanta plate above the lake and Rebula in the hills — two days that connect the mountain and the border with Italy.
31·07 / 4 minTwo distilleries, one river and half an hour's drive between them — how to drive to Speyside without wasting a glass.
31·07 / 4 minA city where espresso doesn't exist — it's looking for nero. A one-day gourmet excursion across the border, from a Viennese tavern to a stall selling Adriatic sardines.
30·07 / 4 minFrom Sjenica to Zlatar, two days and half a kilo of cheese in the trunk — a route that measures height, salt and patience.
29·07 / 4 minA 40-kilogram wheel, a keg as old as its owner, mortadella as thick as a pole — the plan for three days in the Po Valley.
29·07 / 4 minAlready after the first cup, you know whether they are driving you or teaching you. How can a visit to the distillery and cellar not be a tourist show, but a day that leaves something behind.
28·07 / 4 minAmber wine that sleeps in a buried barrel for six months, a table that never gets emptied and mountains on the horizon — Kakheti is hedonism without a brake.
28·07 / 4 minIn the morning, at Kalenić, at noon, they fly to the Cabinet Office in Kosmaj — 45 kilometers that turn the day into a ritual, not an obligation.
27·07 / 4 minNinety kilometers separate the factory that invented the golden lager from Prague's beer halls where draft beer is drunk standing up. We drove that line.
27·07 / 4 minAt half past five in the morning, the asphalt is still cold, the road is empty, and the air smells of hay. Ninety minutes that summer doesn't have to take away from you.
26·07 / 4 minThe air conditioner does not turn off in March. It screeches at +38 in the column near Karlovac, when you still have 900 km to the sea and children in the back seat.
26·07 / 7 minSmoke from a hole in the ground, seven recipes for mole and a market that smells like cocoa — Oaxaca is not visited, it is eaten and drunk.
26·07 / 4 minA circuit of 215 kilometers: Ljig, the serpentines of Rudnik, Oplenac and a plate that is worth every revolution of the engine.
25·07 / 4 minKyoto can be +37 in July with humidity that sticks the shirt to the back — but the city is conquered at seven in the morning and nine at night.
25·07 / 4 minCooler bag that really cools, gear that fits in one chest, and groceries that don't capitulate at +35. List without hyphens.
24·07 / 4 minThe warmth of the plains, the coldness of the mountains and an altitude of 1,200 meters — three lakes that turn the weekend into three different states.
24·07 / 4 minA 90-minute break that turns the whole trip into an event: five regions along the route to the sea where local wine is poured and a memorable plate is brought out.
24·07 / 4 minThree days, three faces of the Balkans and one tank of decisions: where to go when you have 72 hours and the will to drive, not wait.
24·07 / 7 minThe blender works for a minute, a bag from the market costs 400 dinars, and the stomach remains light until the first break. This is how you drink Friday morning before the trip.
24·07 / 4 minNo air conditioning, no bar, no notifications: three places in Western Serbia where the extended weekend is measured in mornings, not hours.
23·07 / 4 minThe Kadu waterfall falls thirty meters into a silence unknown to the city, and above it stands Gostuša, built of stone without a single nail.
23·07 / 7 minThe highest peak in Serbia, a waterfall that falls 15 meters and a stone village — all in two days, if you know in which order.
22·07 / 4 minThe smell of overheated brakes on the third down is not normal — it's the car telling you that you're driving wrong. Here's how it doesn't happen.
22·07 / 6 minWhile Belgrade stands at +38, at 1000 meters the wind blows and a blanket is mandatory at night. Three mountains, three characters, three reasons to fill up the tank.
22·07 / 4 minWhile the city is boiling at 38, at 1000 meters the wind is blowing that smells like spruce. A route that climbs from hell to shade in two hours' drive.
21·07 / 4 minThe van is not a car for those who have given up driving — but for those who have realized that 1,600 liters of luggage space changes the whole vacation.
21·07 / 7 minA fifty-year-old pine cools the tent while the asphalt outside is 40°C. Three campsites in Dalmatia where you park your car in the shade, and the sea is a hundred steps away.
21·07 / 4 minNo ferry, no hour of sand. Five beaches that you drive to, leave your car and in ten minutes you are in the water.
21·07 / 4 minFive hundred kilometers of asphalt above the sea, from Velebit to Pelješac — how to divide the highway into stages that are remembered, not endured.
21·07 / 7 minA burger at the gas station at 9 am is driving sabotage. Here's what fits in the fridge-bag and keeps you awake until the sea.
21·07 / 4 minA breakdown doesn't happen on the highway — it happens in the parking lot, in your head, the evening before. Here's what to check while you can still fix it.
20·07 / 4 minA tire at +50°C forgives nothing, an AC that blows lukewarm air steals your focus, and the radiator gives out exactly where no one's looking. Here's how to get a car ready for the coast.
20·07 / 7 minFrom sardines in Fažana to olive oil in Vodnjan and truffles above Motovun — a route where every stop is a meal.
20·07 / 4 minThree terraces above the Danube, three glasses of Riesling, and the hour when light bends across the water — with names, elevations, and tasting prices.
17·07 / 4 minLedinci, Bruje and Sot: where to pitch a tent, what it costs, and why shade decides everything for a summer weekend on Fruska Gora.
17·07 / 4 min
The plain isn't boring once you know where to turn — five stretches of asphalt in Vojvodina where the top stays down well past noon.
17·07 / 4 minSeventy-eight kilometers of ridgeline, three dozen bends per stretch, and a sausage at Irisi Venac — Fruska Gora isn't a day trip, it's a test for your legs and your gearbox.
17·07 / 6 minA hundred kilometers of ridge, cool air rising off the Danube, and not a single truck on the road — if you're out before seven.
17·07 / 4 minTwo days on a peninsula where the vineyard drops into the sea at a 45-degree pitch, and oysters are eaten two meters from where they were pulled out of the water.
17·07 / 4 min