Beograd · 43°49′NBeograd— Editorial —No. 190Četvrtak / 17·09·202617·09·26
MODUS
Travel · Blog

Tara, Zlatibor and Stara planina when the city boils at +38

While Belgrade stands at +38, at 1000 meters the wind blows and a blanket is mandatory at night. Three mountains, three characters, three reasons to fill up the tank.

A brown horse grazes in a green field with hills.
Photo: Ilija Vukov / Unsplash

The thermometer in the car shows 41 in the parking lot in front of the building, the air conditioner is running at full throttle and it still doesn't help. That's the moment when a person realizes that the solution is not another fan, but 200 kilometers of highway and altitude. For every 100 meters of ascent, the air cools by about half a degree — up to a thousand meters, that's a difference of seven to eight degrees, enough to make the night look for cover.

Three Serbian mountains offer it in three ways. They're not the same, and that's the point — you're choosing a character, not just a shade.

Tara: shade that smells like resin

Tara is the densest, greenest and coldest of the three. Klanci Drina, a pine forest that climbs up to 1500 meters andBanjska Stena viewpointover the canyon — 250 meters of vertical underfoot. The summer afternoon here rarely exceeds 26 degrees, and the night under the pines can drop below 12. The base is Kaludjerske Bare or Mitrovac; both have rooms, but you can find real silence in private accommodation in Zaovine, next to the lake.

If you are more interested in the asphalt itself to the top than the destination, we have written in detail about the serpentines that climb into the shade in the guideMountain escape from the heat. The emphasis here is on where to stop when you arrive.

Zlatibor: the easiest, the most comfortable, the most crowded

Zlatibor is the most drinkable choice — 1000 meters average, an open plateau instead of a gorge, and an infrastructure that works 365 days. The panoramic gondola from the center to Tornik is long9 kilometersand it is the longest in the world of its kind. The flaw is obvious: in July and August, the center resembles a seaside promenade. The solution is to sleep in the center because of the facilities, and spend the day on the side of Šljivovica, Sirogojna and Gostilje, where the waterfall falls 20 meters and the crowd is cut in half.

They're not the same, and that's the point — you're choosing a character, not just a shade.

What are you looking for here?draft-dried Zlatibor prosciuttoand young cow's cheese from Sirogojn. It is accompanied by homemade cheese and cream — a combination that, like on the coast, is best drunk with something fresh and cold; we elaborated the principle in the text aboutwhite wines for summer.

Stara planina: a wilderness for those who run away from it all

If Zlatibor is bothered by the crowd, Stara planina is the cure. The highest peak Midjor stands on2169 meters, and the Tupavica waterfall and Babin Zub seem as if no one has seen them. It's colder, emptier and wilder here — the price is that the infrastructure is thinner and the roads more demanding. The base is the Babin Zub Ski Center or the villages around Pirot. Bring a deep reserve in the plan: gas stations are rare, and the signal can disappear.

Three mountains, figures side by side

MountainAverage heightSummer daily maxDistance from BGIt's crowded
Tara1000–1500 m~26 °C~200 kmMedium
Zlatibor~1000 m~28 °C~230 kmTall
Old mountain1100–2169 m~24 °C~330 kmLow

Our measurement from the road: the difference in temperature between the Belgrade asphalt and the pine forest on Tara in August was 15 degrees. It doesn't feel like rest—it feels like another breathing system.

Questions & answers

short and to the point
Which is the coldest mountain in Serbia in summer — Tara, Zlatibor or Stara planina?
Stara planina, due to its height of up to 2169 m, has the lowest summer maximums (about 24 °C), and Tara is the coldest in the lower zone due to the dense pine forest. Zlatibor is the warmest of the three, around 28 °C.
How far is it from Belgrade to Zlatibor by car?
About 230 km, a three-hour drive on the A2 highway to Užice and the exit to Zlatibor. The last part is serpentines, count 40-50 km/h.
Which mountain is best for a first time without crowds?
Stara planina — is the emptiest and wildest, but has thin infrastructure and rare pumps. For hassle-free comfort choose Zlatibor, for forest and silence Tara.

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