Kyoto and Osaka in summer: early temples, late dinners
Kyoto can be +37 in July with humidity that sticks the shirt to the back — but the city is conquered at seven in the morning and nine at night.
Kyoto in August is a city that punishes you if you get the clock wrong. The thermometer rises at noon36–38°C, and humidity of over 70% turns every cobblestone into a sauna with no exit. A tourist who goes on a tourFushimi Inariat one in the afternoon, after fifteen minutes, he stands in the shade and drinks his third bottle of water. He who knows has already been up and down while the gates were still cold.
The point of a Japanese summer isn't to avoid the heat—it's to arrange your day so that the heat works for you. Temples at dawn, lunch in an air-conditioned area, afternoon in the shade or by train to Osaka, dinner when the sun goes down. A rhythm, not a marathon.
Why are temples viewed before eight?
Fushimi Inari Taishais open 24 hours and has no toll gate — it's the only major Kyoto temple you can walk through at six in the morning, with thousands of orangetoriigate almost empty. By eight you climb up to the first platform (about 30 minutes of ascent), and by ten you're already down, while the buses are just unloading the crowd.Kinkaku-ji(Golden Pavilion) opens at 9:00 a.m. — be at the gate then, because by 11 a.m. the line is halfway around the parking lot.
Bamboo groveArashiyamit does the same trick: the trail is at its nicest and freshest by 7:30, while the sun is still breaking through the trees. In the afternoon leave forGionand narrow streets — they are shaded by facades and tolerable even around noon.
Osaka is an evening city — and that works to your advantage
From Kyoto to Osaka by train15 minutesby shinkansen or 40 minutes by regular JR express. This means that you can spend the worst part of the day — from 1 to 5 p.m. — on the train and underground, in the huge air-conditioned malls around Umeda station. Osaka comes alive only in the evening, whenDotonboriturn on the neon and the smelltakoyakiandokonomiyakistrike from every angle.
The point of a Japanese summer isn't to avoid the heat—it's to arrange your day so that the heat works for you.
If Japanese cuisine is your reason for traveling, it's worth knowing how it works at home — we wrote about it in the guides fordashi and ramenandfive Japanese foods from Belgrade. On the spot, the rule is simple:tobaccocounters and lines mean the food is good, not a tourist trap.
For refreshment between temples, iced matcha is everywhere — and we've shown how it's made without bitternessin a special recipe. In Kyoto, look for her in teahouses aroundListenfourth, where matcha originates.
When exactly to go
If you can choose, don't choose July and August. But if you must fly, here's how the months behave:
| Period | Temperature | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Mid June | 26–30°C | rainy season (tsuyu), but fresh and empty |
| Jul | 32–36°C | Peak humidity; Gion Matsuri Festival (July 17) |
| August | 35–38°C | The worst; but Obon and fireworks |
| Mid September | 28–32°C | He gives in; the best compromise |
Our conclusion from the trip:second half of Septemberis the smartest window — the heat is easing, the crowds are thinning, and airfares are falling after their August peak.
Questions & answers
short and to the point- How hot is it in Kyoto in summer?
- In July and August, the daily maximum is 35–38°C with humidity over 70%. Midday is unbearable, so temples are visited before 9 am and after 6 pm.
- When is the best time to go to Kyoto and Osaka to avoid the heat?
- The second half of September is the best compromise — 28–32°C, less crowds and cheaper flights than in August. The middle of June is fresh but rainy.
- How long is the train from Kyoto to Osaka?
- About 15 minutes by Shinkansen, 40 minutes by regular JR express. Ideal for escaping the afternoon heat in an air-conditioned train.
