Ceger na Kalenić, fly on Kosmaj: a gourmet day
In the morning, at Kalenić, at noon, they fly to the Cabinet Office in Kosmaj — 45 kilometers that turn the day into a ritual, not an obligation.
Eight in the morning, a stall with young kaymak onKalenićshe's not obsessed yet, and that's the whole trick. The saleswoman from Avala pours from a plastic bucket, her finger leaves a trace in white, and for 300 grams she asks about RSD 550. Half an hour later, the same stall has a row of six people and cream that was already standing in the sun. He who comes early chooses; he who comes late buys what is left.
One Saturday in June, we packed that same basket in twenty minutes, threw it in the trunk with a bag of ice, and by eleven, we were already sitting in the yard of the brewery onKosmaju. Kajmak endured the ride because it was cold before departure — this is the only lesson that day requires.
Why the market goes first and the brewery goes second
The order is not aesthetics, but logistics. At the market, you buy things that don't like the heat — cream, young cheese, tomatoes that smell like stems — so you have to get into a ceger with ice before the sun hits. On the other hand, the brewery is not visited on an empty stomach and with a full day ahead of it; it feels like going when there is no place left to hurry.
Kalenić on Vracar is ideal for this because he has everything on one square: a row for dairy products, a row for vegetables, and a bakery on the corner where hot bread comes out around nine. Our measure with moretest Saturdays: Cheger basket for two — cream, a piece of cottage cheese, a kilo of tomatoes, a string of spring onions, a fresh egg — fits in the eye2,500 to 3,000 dinars. It's all-day food, not one meal. If you are interested in what goes with it, we have explained a couple of cheeses with beer in the textCheese with beer.
Kosmaj and Cabinet: 45 kilometers to the flyyte
From Vračar toNemenićaon Kosmaj there are about30 Miles.and, without crowds, just under an hour — in Ibar and then turning towards Sopot. ThereChambers., one of the few Serbian craft breweries that has an out-of-town plant and a courtyard to sit in. TheirPale Aleis still the fairest way into the story today: citrus hop bitterness, but drinkable, not aggressive, about 5% alcohol. Who likes stronger aromatics, there is also a series of sessions and IPA editions.
One Saturday in June, we packed that same basket in twenty minutes, threw it in the trunk with a bag of ice, and by eleven, we were already sitting in the yard of the brewery on Kosmaju .
Half a liter of draught beer in the yard is aboutRSD 350 to 450, and tastingflyytefrom a few smaller glasses goes aboutRSD 800 to 1,000— and this is the right way to try the range, because the flyer exists exactly so that you do not have to choose. Open the cream and cheese from the cegera on the table, order a flyer, and you have a lunch that no restaurant can stack. How to drink a style and at what temperature, we have explained in detail in the editorialCraft beer from pilsner to lamp.
Before you go, check the opening hours of the yard — it changes seasonally and can be visited on weekends. And if Kosmaj seems like too little for a whole day, we have given a wider map of domestic plants infive craft breweries of the region.
The return is the most beautiful part: the ceger empty, in the head three styles of beer, and Kosmaj in the rearview mirror as you descend towards the city before dusk. The day that started in the cream line ends without a single item on the to-do list.
Questions & answers
short and to the point- Where is the Cabinet Brewery and how far is it from Belgrade?
- The cabinet is in Nemenikući on Kosmaj, about 45 kilometers from Belgrade — just under an hour's drive to Ibarska and then turning towards Sopot.
- How much is a flyer of beer at a craft brewery?
- The tasting flyer of several smaller glasses costs about 800 to 1,000 dinars, while half a liter of draft beer in the yard is about 350 to 450 dinars.
- When to go to the Kalenić market for the best goods?
- Around 8 in the morning, until the kaymak and cheese stalls are obsessed and the goods were standing in the sun — whoever comes early chooses.
