Sicily for hedonists: Etna, black sand and arancini
A volcano smoking above the vineyards, red grapes at 800 meters and panino with spleen at the Palermo market — Sicily is eaten with your hands.
Etna does not stand still. As you climb the serpentine above Linguaglossa, a thin thread of smoke rises from the crater at the top, breaking in the wind, and below you stretch rows of vines planted in the gunpowder-black sand. That's not a metaphor—the soil is literally crushed lava, and the grapes that grow in it have a flavor that no other vineyard in Italy can replicate. Sicily is not an island for those who count calories and look for a beach with sponges. This is the place where the day starts with a ball of fried rice bought from the counter, and ends with a glass of red wine grown on an active volcano.
We approached the island from the north, from Catania, and in three days crossed from the crater to the market in Palermo. This is the map of that volcanic feast.
Why the grapes from Etna do not look like any other
DOC Etna has existed since 1968 and today is the most exciting wine region of southern Italy, and the reason is at your feet. The volcanic soil is porous, rich in minerals and drains water so quickly that the vines have to drive their roots deep. Most of the best vineyards are on the northern and eastern slopes, at altitudes in between600 and 1,000 meters— the height at which the freshness of the night preserves its acidity and aroma, even when it is +35 down in Catania.
Red is made from the varietyNerello Mascalese, with the addition of Nerello Cappuccia. In the glass, it's a light ruby color, paler than you'd expect, with aromas of cherry, dried flowers and smoke — the closest Italian relative to Pinot Burgundian. It's whiteCarricante, a sour, salty variety that develops notes of flint and almonds with age in the bottle. What separates Etna from the rest of the world arecontrade— individual wine-growing localities, such as the Burgundy Crios, where each plot has its own voice. And old vines: there are manypiede franco, on its own roots without American substrate, because phylloxera did not like volcanic sand. Some crossa hundred years.
| Wine | Sort of | Serving temperature | With what |
|---|---|---|---|
| Etna Rosso | Nerello Mascalese | 15-16°C | lamb, caciocavallo, game |
| Etna Bianco | Carricante | 10-12°C | raw fish, seafood, arancini |
| Etna Rosato | Nerello Mascalese | 8-10°C | street food, sfincione |
If you read our text aboutcheese and filata pasta, Sicilian caciocavallo ravanato is the same principle of steamed dough — and with casca matured Etna Rosso, it's one of the best pairings the island has to offer.
Climbing the crater: what you really need to know
Etna is the highest active volcano in Europe, approx3,357 meters— a number that changes with each major eruption. You don't climb to the very top without guides; the upper zone is under the constant supervision of volcanologists and access depends on the activity. But the arrival to2,500 metersis doable and memorable.
From the south side, from Rifugio Sapienza, the cable carFunivia dell'Etnadrives up to about 2,500 m, from where off-road vehicles and guides continue higher. Count the eye50-65 eurosfor the cable car in both directions, more if you take a guided tour to the crater. The north side, from Piano Provenzano, is wilder and less touristy. No matter where you're going: it's cold and windy up there and summer down there — bring a layer and sturdy shoes, because you're walking on sharp lava crusts that eat away at the soles of your sneakers for a week.
The best part is not even the crater. That's v_othrough the vineyard ringon the northern slope — the road that connects Randazzo, Castiglione di Sicilia and Linguaglossa, with a view of the dimeci peak above the rows of old vines. If you are planning a volcano route like this as part of a larger trip, the principle is the same as oursmountain-sea-wine route: drives slowly, stops often, and every break is a tavern or cellar.
Palermo is eaten standing up
If Etna is a festive dinner, Palermo is breakfast eaten on your feet, with the clamor of sellers. The city has three large street markets —Ballaro, Vucciria and Capo— and all three are stages forcibo di strada, street food that was named one of the best in the world in 2015.
We approached the island from the north, from Catania, and in three days crossed from the crater to the market in Palermo.
He is the kingarancina(in Palermo feminine, in Catania masculine —arancino, and there are serious arguments about it) — a breaded ball of risotto, classically filled with ragu with peas (al ragu) or sun and cheese (al burro). The weight of the product is approx200 grams, crust crispy, center hot. Thenpanels— toasted chickpea flour pancakes, which are eaten in the ground between two slices of bread.
It exists for the bravepane ca' meusa— country with telecom spleen and lungs, cooked in fat, with or without ricotta (maritataorschietta). The smell is strong, the taste iron and greasy, and it is the test of whether you are a tourist or a guest. Isphincteric— thick, spongy Palermo pizza with onions, sardines and breadcrumbs. The price of all this is measured in single-digit euros; it rarely passes4-5 euros.
As withBasque pintxos bars, the rule is the same: eat where the locals are standing, not where the menu is in four languages.
Hidden Gems
Contrada above Solicchiata— on the northern slope, above the village of Solicchiata, are some of Etna's oldest vineyards. Most of the small wineries receive visits by appointment only; look for signboardscantinaalong the road to Passopisciar and ask in the village — you won't regret it.
For olive oil: Sicily has autochthonous varietiesNocellara del Belice and Biancolilla, with a burning sensation in the throat that gives off fresh oil. How to read what you are buying, we explained in the guide forextra virgin olive oil.
Granita for breakfast— in Catania and its surroundings, granita made of almonds or mulberries (black mulberries) with warm brioche is the way the locals start a summer morning. Look for it in the early hours, while it is still frozen, not at noon when it melts.
Wine hour at Randazz— a medieval town made of black lava, with wine bars where a glass of Etna Rossa from a prime vintage is poured for less than 6 euros. You sit outside in the late afternoon while the peak above you turns orange.
Questions & answers
short and to the point- At what temperature is Etna Rosso served?
- Etna Rosso from the Nerello Mascalese variety is served at 15-16°C — fresh, not at room temperature. White from Carricante goes cooler, at 10-12°C.
- How much does it cost to climb Mount Etna by cable car?
- Zicara Funivia dell'Etna up to about 2,500 meters costs 50-65 euros in both directions. A guided tour to the higher zone with off-road vehicles and a guide increases the price.
- What is the difference between arancino and arancino?
- The same breaded ball of risotto — in Palermo it is feminine (arancina, round), in Catania it is masculine (arancino, often silky). The classic filling is ragu with peas or sunka and cheese.
