Beograd · 43°49′NBeograd— Editorial —No. 190Četvrtak / 17·09·202617·09·26
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Enology · Blog

Amber wine: a white grape that behaves like a red one

Apricot color, light black tannins, dry fruit aroma. Amber wine is a white wine that has been left on the skins and changed the rules.

Two amber goblets on a wooden table
Photo: Brad / Unsplash

You pour a glass and expect a golden yellow liquid, and you get the color of an overripe apricot and the first sip that tightens your gums like a weak black man. It is not a spoiled wine. It's amber, and it does exactly what the book says—except the book is eight thousand years old.

The name depends on who you ask. Winemakers sayamberbecause it describes color; marketing saysorangebecause it sounds better. The essence is the same: white grapes fermentedon the cuticles, according to the recipe you normally use to make red wine. This is where any resemblance to a cold bottle of Malvasia from the fridge ends.

What happens when white remains on the skin

Classic white wine is pressed immediately — the juice goes into fermentation, the skins and stems into the compost. That is why it is pale, fresh and without tannic structure. With amber wine, you do the opposite: the pressed juice remains in contact with the skins, seeds and sometimes the stalksfrom a few days to six or more months. This maceration brings out what otherwise decays in the skin of the white grapes —tannins, phenols and pigments.

The result is a wine that has texture. Where white usually caresses the palate, amber doessnack. Tannin gives dryness and grip, the color goes from amber to copper, and the volatility of aromas increases with time on the skin. The tradition is Georgian — the grapes are macerated in clay jarskvevriburied in the ground, which we wrote about first-hand in the text of FrKakheti and Kvevri wine. Istria and Slovenia have embraced the method in the last twenty years, most often with Malvasia and Rebula.

How it smells and tastes

Forget citrus and white flowers. Amber wine smells likedried apricot, orange peel, black tea, walnut and honey, sometimes on cider and leather. In the mouth it is dry, tannic, often with an oxidative note reminiscent of sherry. It's not the wine you drink when you're thirsty — it's the wine you drink with the plate.

Winemakers say amber because it describes color; marketing says orange because it sounds better.

The same variety gives a completely different face depending on the length of maceration. Here's a rough guide:

MacerationColorStructure
3–7 dayspale gold, slightly orangelight tannin, still fresh
2–4 weeksamberclear tannin, dry fruit
3–6+ monthscoppery, cloudyfirm tannin, oxidation, long finish

What food does it work with?

Here, amber excels where whites fall. Tannin and body carrystrong, spicy and fatty disheswhich would run over the thin Malvasia. We tried it with mature hard cheeses and with spicy Asian cuisine — a combination that hardly any white can withstand.

  • Ripe cheeses— old cheese, gruyère, mountain cheese with sweetness; tannin cuts fat
  • Spicy cuisine— Moroccan tagine, Indian curry, Korean gochujang
  • Roasted and smoked— pork neck, duck, dishes withbarbecue and barbecue
  • Fermented— kimchi, miso, umami bombs

If you're used to summer meaning a chilled glass from an ice bucket, amber calls for a different approach — both the temperature and the plate. For the basics of serving white, see our guide ontemperature and ice bucket errors, because amber is served warmer than you'd think:12–16 °C, not icy.

This is not a wine for everyone and for every day — and that's the point. Amber is a wine that demands your attention. When you first realize that white grapes can have the tannic backbone of red, you have a hard time going back to the faceless yellow liquid from the fridge.

Questions & answers

short and to the point
What is orange or amber wine?
It is a white wine fermented on the skins of grapes, as red wine is made. Maceration extracts tannins and pigments, giving it an amber color and a tannic structure.
At what temperature is amber wine served?
Between 12 and 16 °C, significantly warmer than classic white. Below 10 °C, the cold stifles the aromas of dried fruit and accentuates the tannin.
What food goes with orange wine?
With strong and spicy dishes: mature hard cheeses, curries, tagines, smoked meats and fermented foods like kimchi. Tannin and body carry what a thin white can't handle.

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