The allspice goes in last, and it's removed from the heat
Gulaš najčešće ne pokvari meso nego kašika paprike bačena u vreo lonac. Ima tačan trenutak, i on je posle vatre.
Goulash rarely fails because of the meat. It fails because of one spoonful of allspice that fell into the pot while the fat was still sizzling, turned black in about twenty seconds and left the whole pot in bitterness, which is not removed by acid or sugar even after three hours of simmering. That's the only irreversible flaw in this dish.
Ako ste došli po spisak, evo ga bez okolišanja: allspice, cumin, marjoram, bay leaf, garlic and black pepper. Šest stvari, ništa više, i svaka ima svoj trenutak u loncu. Redosled je ovde važniji od količine.
Why pepper does not tolerate fire
Aleva paprika je mleveni plod sa dosta prirodnog šećera i sa bojenim materijama rastvorljivim u masti. To znači dve stvari odjednom: mast joj je neophodna da pusti boju, a šećer joj gori na temperaturi na kojoj se mast već odavno oseća prijatno. Ivica je uska — negde oko 150 to 160 degrees paprika prelazi iz slatke i crvene u braon i oštru.
That's why the potskine s ringle, wait half a minute for the fat to stop stirring, and only then add the paprika, stir and pour immediately. Water or soup lowers the temperature below the burning point, and after that the pepper can no longer burn, no matter how long the dish simmers. The whole maneuver takes fifteen seconds and is the only reason why someone else's goulash is the color of bricks and yours is the color of mud.
Mera koju držimo u redakciji: per kilogram of meat there is a kilogram of onion and two full spoons of allspice, od toga jedna slatka i, ako volite, pola kašike ljute. Luk nije prilog nego zgušnjivač — mora da se topi najmanje petnaest minuta dok ne postane providan i mek, jer se posle više neće raspasti.
Caraway and marjoram: two scents that do opposite jobs
Kim se stavlja early, zajedno sa lukom ili odmah posle zalivanja. Njegova ulja su teška i trebaju im sati da se rašire kroz masnoću, a njegov posao je da razbije osećaj težine koji junetina ostavlja na nepcu. Meljite ga tek pred upotrebu ili ga bar zdrobite među prstima — ceo, star kim iz teglice koja stoji dve godine ne miriše ni na šta.
Ako ste došli po spisak, evo ga bez okolišanja: allspice, cumin, marjoram, bay leaf, garlic and black pepper .
Marjoram does the opposite. Its aroma is volatile and escapes from the pot through the lid, so it is addedu poslednjih deset minuta. Rub dry marjoram in the palm of your hand before throwing it in: the friction warms it up and opens it up, and the difference is felt immediately. The bay leaf goes with the watering and is removed towards the end — after an hour and a half it starts to give that apothecary note that no one needs.
| Začin | When it goes to pot | Mera na 1 kg mesa |
|---|---|---|
| Allspice | Lonac sklonjen s vatre, pa odmah zaliti | 2 tablespoons (1 sweet + 1 to taste) |
| Kim | With onions or immediately after watering | 1 kašičica, zdrobljen |
| Laurel | Sa zalivanjem, vaditi posle 90 minuta | 2 leaves |
| Beli luk | The last 20 minutes | 3 čena, sitno |
| Marjoram | Poslednjih 10 minuta | 1 teaspoon, rubbed |
| Crni biber | Finally, freshly ground | po ukusu |
What doesn't add up
Beli luk u gulašu nije osnova nego završni potez — ubačen na početku, on se za tri sata svari u ništa i ostavi samo slatkoću. Ide sitno seckan dvadesetak minuta pred kraj, tada se oseti.
And one disclaimer: we do not add flour. Goulash thickens with onions and time, not by sprinkling. If it's still thin after three hours, remove the lid for the last half hour and let it reduce — you'll get a thicker texture without any off-flavors. The same principle of patience that holdsbrisket na 110 stepenialso applies here, only in the pot instead of the smokehouse.
Uz gotov gulaš ne ide teško crno vino nego nešto sa kiselinom koja seče mast — a posle njega, ako je bio ozbiljan, herbalist doing her job.
Questions & answers
short and to the point- Koji začini idu u gulaš?
- Allspice, cumin, marjoram, bay leaf, garlic and black pepper. Two spoons of allspice, a teaspoon of cumin and a teaspoon of marjoram are used per kilogram of meat.
- Kada se dodaje aleva paprika u gulaš?
- Tek kada se lonac skine s vatre i mast se malo smiri, pa se odmah zalije vodom ili supom. Iznad 160 stepeni paprika izgori za dvadesetak sekundi i jelo postane gorko.
- Da li se gulaš zgušnjava brašnom?
- Ne treba. Kilogram crnog luka na kilogram mesa, dovoljno dugo topljen, sam zgusne sos. Ako je redak, skinite poklopac na poslednjih pola sata.
