Beograd · 43°49′NBeograd— Editorial —No. 190Četvrtak / 17·09·202617·09·26
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Gastronomy · Blog

Ajvar season: which peppers and how much patience is needed

Whoever skips the peeling and just cuts the burnt pepper with the peel, has made something red and thick — but it is not an ajvar, but a trick for the eye.

Stack of red peppers stacked on the counter
Photo credits: Jonas Schöne / Unsplash

Anyone who skips the peeling and just cuts the burnt pepper along with the crust has made something red and thick — but it's not ajvar, it's an eye trick. The real difference between homemade ajvar and the one from the action jar is not in the amount of peppers, but in the hours one decides to invest before even lighting the stove.

Peppers that are selected by weight, not by color

It is used for ajvarthee. QUERY LENGTH LIMIT EXCEEDED. MAX ALLOWED QUERY : 500 CHARS

Roasting: until crust turns black, not earlier

The pepper is roasted on a direct flame, grill or in an oven heated to 220-250°C, until the crust turns black and bubbles all over the surface — half the work is burnt crust, not the meat under it. Immediately after roasting, the peppers go into a covered pot or closed nylon bag for about ten minutes; the steam they create separates the peel from the meat and then peels off with their bare hands in a second, without a knife.

Why the crust must be removed before grinding

The burnt crust carries a bitter, burnt taste that only distributes the grind evenly throughout the jar — one forgotten shell in a kilogram of meat is felt in every spoon. The crust also does not soften even after an hour of cooking; it remains as tiny, tough fibers that spoil the texture that should be smooth and creamy. That is why peeling is done before grinding, never after — the grinding machine does not distinguish between meat and burnt peel, just chop them both together.

The pepper is roasted on a direct flame, grill or in an oven heated to 220-250°C, until the crust turns black and bubbles all over the surface — half the work is burnt crust, not the meat under it.

Cooking: one and a half to three hours, stirring constantly

Ground pepper meat is cooked over a quiet fire with oil, stirring every ten minutes or so so that it does not burn at the bottom — the wider and heavier the pot, the less chance it will burn. The finished ajvar is the one that, when the spoon is pulled through the middle, leaves a trail that closes slowly. The jars are filled hot, immediately closed and turned upside down until they cool down — the resulting vacuum is the reason why homemade ajvar lasts for months without preservatives.

The same roasted gate sauce that goes with autumn meat meals also requires appropriate spicy support — in the text ongoulash with cayenne pepperwe wrote why pepper is added only when the pot is removed from the fire, the same rule that preserves the color here when the ajvar ends up cooking. And if the gate is chosen at the market, the same morning it is convenient to pass the stall with honey and grapes — how to do it, we wrote in the text aboutpre-season farmers' market.

The last thing worth knowing before the jars are taken to the pantry: the ajvar after cooling looks thicker than it was hot, because at room temperature it tightens further. Whoever pours the ajvar while it is hot and judges it too rare will wait for it to cool down before lighting the stove again — it often turns out that the density was fine from the beginning.

Questions & answers

short and to the point
Which pepper is best for ajvar?
Gate — fleshy, elongated pepper with thick walls. It is selected by the weight in the hand, the shiny crust without soft spots and the uniform dark red color.
Why must the peel of the peppers be removed from the ajvar?
The burnt crust has a bitter taste that is distributed through the entire jar by grinding and remains as tough fibers that do not soften even after prolonged cooking.
How long is ajvar cooked?
An hour and a half to three hours on a quiet fire, stirring every ten minutes or so so that it does not burn at the bottom of the pot.

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