Beograd · 43°49′NBeograd— Editorial —No. 190Četvrtak / 17·09·202617·09·26
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Gastronomy · Blog

Five Belgrade roasters whose grain goes in the backpack

Today, Belgrade shines as a serious European metropolis. Five addresses where a 250 gram bag is worth more than a cup on the spot.

person pouring coffee beans on a machine
Photo: Yanapi Senaud / Unsplash

The smell of fresh frying is not hidden. You pass an open door on Cetinjska or Dobračina and he catches you before you can read the name on the window — caramel, toast, sometimes a trace of dried fruit. That bean was roasted two days ago, not two months ago, and the difference is read in the cup without any explanation.

Belgrade's specialty scene has grown up. It's no longer about a bar that imports other people's grain, but about roasters that roast themselves and sell a bag to take home. Here are five addresses where we've been buying grain and grinding it for the next few days—and what you can expect from each.

How to read the profile on the bag

Before the name, one rule.Date of fryingis more important than the packing date; look for beans roasted 4 to 20 days ago, as freshly roasted beans release too much CO2 for the first 3-4 days to extract evenly. A lighter roast (light brown, without an oily surface) carries acidity and fruity notes and calls for a filter or V60; darker, with the sheen of oil on the bean, goes towards espresso and milk. How grain processing — prana, natural, honey — changes that equation, we have broken down into the text on coffee processing.

Five addresses and their character

Blacksheep— one of the pioneers of specialty frying in Belgrade, with a roastery and bar on Cetinjska. Their style is a balanced medium roast that works equally well as an espresso and a filter; a good first bag for someone switching from a dark commercial grain, as it does not have sharp acidity.

Roaster D59Bin Dobračina keeps a lighter, filter-oriented roasting with clearer acidity and seasonal single origin lots. Look here for Ethiopia or Kenya when it's on offer and grind rough for the V60.

It's no longer about a bar that imports other people's grain, but about roasters that roast themselves and sell a bag to take home.

Cafeteriahe roasts his own beans for several bars in the city; their espresso blend is classic, chocolatey and nutty, made to stand up to milk in a cappuccino. A practical choice because you can find the bag in several places.

Cooperativedowntown runs smaller, rotating batches — ask the barista what's roasted that week and what method it's set for. Here the profile varies on purpose, so it pays to talk before buying.

Apparatuskeeps light to medium roasts with an emphasis on cup cleanliness and precise bar recipes; their beans are great for espresso at home if you already have a grinder with an adjustment. When you cook it, the same extraction logic as inour espresso guide— 25 seconds and a ratio of 1:2.

RoasteryProfileWhat to buy for
Black SheepA balanced mediumEspresso and filter, first bag
Roaster D59BLighter, single originV60, filter
CafeteriaChocolate-nut blendCappuccino, milk
CooperativeRotating seriesSeasonal, according to the advice of the barista
ApparatusLight-medium, cleanEspresso for the precise

What to bring and how to store

Buy 250 grams, not a kilogram — the beans start to lose their flavor three weeks after opening, so two smaller bags are better than one big one. Keep it in an opaque bag with a valve, at room temperature, away from the refrigerator (condensation kills the aroma). And grind just before cooking: ground grain ages in an hour what whole grain lasts for weeks.

Questions & answers

short and to the point
Which Belgrade roasters roast their own beans?
Crna Ovca (Blacksheep) in Cetinjska, Pržionica D59B in Dobračina, Cafeterija, Coperativa and Aparat fry or choose their own batches that you can take away in a bag.
How fresh should the grain be when I buy it?
Look for the roasting date, not the packaging — ideally roasted 4 to 20 days ago. For the first 3-4 days, the grain releases too much CO2 for even extraction.
Is the grain stored in the refrigerator?
No. The refrigerator creates condensation that kills the aroma. Keep at room temperature in an opaque bag with a valve and use within three weeks of opening.

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