Beograd · 43°49′NBeograd— Editorial —No. 190Četvrtak / 17·09·202617·09·26
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Enology · Editorial

Dzin: the juniper that has to lead, the rest is a negotiation

Without juniper it is not gin but flavored vodka. London Dry, Old Tom and New Western are not marketing but three philosophies of the same bottle.

yellow lemon in clear drinking glass
Photo: Nick Fewings/Unsplash

Open a bottle of good gin and the first thing that hits you is not the alcohol but the pine — a resinous, cool, almost forest note that comes from the juniper berry. That's the rule that separates gin from everything else: no dominantjuniper (Juniperus communis)the liquid in the glass can be anything it wants, but gin is not. Everything else—coriander, citrus, angelica root, cardamom—is a negotiation over how much of that juniper will lead and how much will share the scene.

Legally, gin is a neutral alcohol of agricultural origin re-aromatized with botanicals, with a dominant flavor of juniper and a minimal strength of37.5% ABVin the EU. Everything within that box is the distiller's choice. And it is this choice that makes the difference between the three styles that we will separate until the end — because a man who knows how to order the right gin for his cocktail stops throwing money at the label.

Botany: the holy trinity and accompaniment

Every gin is built around a core of three ingredients.Juniperit gives resin, pine and that dry bitterness that stands in the background. The best comes from the Mediterranean—Tuscany and Macedonia are the traditional sources—and is picked half-ripe, blue-black, because it loses essential oils when overripe.

Coriander (seed, not leaf)is the second most represented in almost every recipe. It brings a lemony, slightly peppery and nutty note; seeds from Eastern Europe are more citrusy, those from Morocco richer in oil. The third pillar iscitrus— dried orange and lemon peel — which opens up the nose and gives a freshness that balances the resin.

The entourage revolves around that trio:angelica root(earthy, binds smells so they don't escape),iris root(fixative, floral powdery note), then cardamom, cassia bark, licorice root, cubeb pepper. Some distillers go for 6 botanicals, others for over 40 — but number is not quality. A poorly balanced gin with 30 botanicals is a cacophony; good with eight is the choir.

BotanyRoleA note in a glass
JuniperMandatory basisPine, resin, dry bitterness
Coriander seedsSecond by massLemon, pepper, walnut
Citrus peelFreshnessOrange, lemon
Angelica rootFragrance binderEarthy, dry
Iris rootFixativeFloral, powdery

London Dry, Old Tom, New Western: three philosophies

These are three different answers to the same question — how much freedom to give botany beyond the juniper.

London Dry — the purist

London Dryis not a geographical indication; that gin can be made anywhere. This is the method: all the botanicals are added during the distillation, nothing must be added afterwards except water and a minimum amount of sugar (up to 0.1 g/l). The result is a dry, sharp, juniper-driven profile — the backbone of any classicGin & TonicandMartini. If you don't know what to order, this is a safe choice because there is nowhere to hide a mistake.

Old Tom — a bridge from the 18th century

Old Tomis an older style, slightly sweetened, that bridged the gap between rough Dutchgeneverand dry London gin. It is rounder, softer, with a hint of sweetness that softens the sharpness of the pine. This is gin forTom Collinsand for older cocktails from the era before ice became ubiquitous. It disappeared almost completely in the 20th century and came back with the craft wave.

Legally, gin is a neutral alcohol of agricultural origin re-aromatized with botanicals, with a dominant flavor of juniper and a minimal strength of 37.

New Western — Rebellion

New Western(orcontemporary) style doesn't break the juniper rule, but it pushes it into the background and lets other botanicals come forward — citrus, flowers, spices, even cucumber or rose. This is where gin starts to resemble perfume in the best sense. It's great on its own with tonic and crust, but in a classic Martini it often loses its structure because it doesn't have that resinous backbone that holds the cocktail together.

StyleSweetnessJuniperThe best in
London DryDry (up to 0.1 g/l)He dominatesMartini, G&T
Old TomSlightly sweetStrong but softerTom Collins, Martinez
New WesternIt variesPresent, not leadingSolo with tonic

How it's made: maceration vs. steam

Two schools. The codemacerationthe botanicals are steeped in alcohol before distillation, like tea, and the whole mixture is roasted — giving it a full, heavy, oily profile. The codevapor infusionthe botanicals hang in a basket above boiling alcohol and the steam passes through, picking up only the lightest, freshest essential oils—hence the airy, floral New Western profiles. Many combine: heavy roots are macerated, delicate flowers are exposed to steam. The same principle of fraction separation that we know frombrandy roasting in a cauldron— only here you don't separate the head and the tail, but choose which aroma to let into the heart.

Hidden Gems: the little things that separate the connoisseurs

First:Plymouthis the only gin with a protected geographical origin in England — softer than London Dry, with more roots, and worth trying precisely for that earthy character that the others don't have.

Second:Navy Strengthon the label means minimum57% ABV— the historical threshold where gunpowder soaked in gin still burns. It's not a trick; stronger botanicals break through the ice and tonic, so Navy Strength is paradoxically a better choice for a cocktail than for drinking straight.

Three: the citrus peel you squeeze over the G&T is not decor. The oils from the peel activate the gin's top notes — fold a lemon peel skin-side down over the glass and you'll see a fine spray. The same gesture we do with the orange peel withvermouth as an aperitif, and which each serioushome barimplies.

Fourth: the tonic chooses the gin, not the other way around. Dry London Dry calls for a neutral Indian tonic; the floral New Western suffocates under the sweet tonic and looks for a light, Mediterranean one. The 1:2 ratio in favor of the tonic is a starting point, not a dogma.

Questions & answers

short and to the point
What is the difference between London Dry and New Western gin?
London Dry is a dry, juniper-infused profile with no added sugar over 0.1 g/l, ideal for a Martini. New Western pushes juniper into the background and lets citrus, flowers and spices come forward, so it's better alone with tonic.
Why is juniper mandatory in gin?
By law, gin must have a dominant flavor of juniper — without it, it's flavored vodka, not gin. Juniper provides the piney, resinous and dry bitter foundation around which everything else is built.
Is Navy Strength gin too strong for a cocktail?
No, on the contrary. With a minimum of 57% ABV, stronger botanicals break through the ice and tonic, so Navy Strength often makes a better G&T than a standard 40% gin.

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